Door Making Episode 3 | Paul Sellers

Door Making Episode 3 | Paul Sellers

December 14, 2019 31 By Luis Garrison


just preparing my Center perpendicular
it’s going to go in the middle of a door like this one here this is where I’ve
ended up I was going to I was considering a cross rail here and that
would be a possibility for you if you wanted to do that but I’m staying at
this I think it’s going to make a more modern look I wanted something that was
a little bit more modern and I’m going to show you some options that you can
have along the way you could go this way you could put six panels in you could
put just the four panels you could divide it right in the middle whichever
way you want to do it but the procedure that we’re going to go through next for
making the panels and installing them and everything will be identical it’d
just be cut to different sizes I took this piece can you see my marks on here
what I did is I took this piece from the face of this piece so I cut
this off ripped it down and I ended up with a book much piece here so this is
going to go in here the door and that will just help to balance the wood which
is very important I think I’ve done pretty well with some awkward grained
wood but I’m taking this down to thickness and every surface gets planed whether it was machined or not if this was machined with the best
performance machines in the world planers and such I would probably
unless it was a sanding machine I probably would still hand plane the surfaces I’ve
never had a piece of wood go out of the shop that wasn’t hand planed so this is
my last surface I’ve got the edges square to the front and now I’m just getting down to nearer
to thickness but my gaze line went along this face here I can see these edges
these corners just sta rt to flake can you see this here you can tell and you
just get into that last thickness if you use the cutting gauge which I did not a
marking gauge you get these very thin edges you can also magically start when
you see those form see if I can get one down here for you why am I doing
this well I’m going to be fitting my Tenon’s
I’ve already got my doors down to thickness there it is you can see that
very thin line there so I know I’m slightly out of square when you’re out
of square that means I’ve dipped a little bit further on this side somehow
instead of trying to count a plane over this I just go to one side like this
take a shaving or two on that side of the plane then finish off with one in
the center and you’ll end up dead on the line there we are that’s my piece of
wood to size what I’m going to do here is I want to
make sure all my joint lines are closed up and to do that I’m just going to put
a clump on and cinch these tight first on each of these and if need be just
give it a whack on the end just to shock everything this is just to make sure
everything seated properly see that slight gap there when I pop this you can
hear how tight this is listen that’s the tenon the tenon walls inside the mortise
holes I’m going to take it off they stay in place the joints are all nice and
tight I’m going to check on it a corner for square to see what make sure I’m
square make sure everything is parallel 17 16 and 3/4 that’s that’s what was
that that’s 18 and 16 3/4 of a millimeter and this is 18 and 17 so
there’s no way I could better that really what I want to do is make sure
here I have the same distances in here because I can get it square that way but
I maybe my shoulder lines could be slightly variable here and I can still
tap these like this one is a hair just to hair under so I can tap here or I
could tap here to make some movement because there will be a fraction of
compression in the turns in the holes I did that did it
look just a little bit which i think is important when we’re going through these
little steps here because I’m going to be marking the shoulder lines off this
off this distance in between these in a minute but I’m still going to check this
for square off a parallel here spot-on it’s really dead-on so shoulder lines
and I want to make this in my case I’ve got a quarter inch deep groove and
I’m just going to go into the main body of wood 3/8 of an it so I’m going to
make five-eighths of an inch my target so measure up from one end or the other
that 5/8 of an inch that gives you a cut line a datum point to start with like
that and then place that you can either go to this inside shoulder here which is
probably the best place to start so you start right on this inside shoulder make
sure it’s square of course parallel let me show you here so I’m going to bring this
over here so I’m right on that line there and then I’m going to bring my
square down inside here and mark that shoulder line so I’ve got my shoulder line here so
this is exactly the same as the distance between the two shoulders and then I’m
going to add that 5/8 on here and that will be my maximum length cut line so
that’s the off cut you always want to check on here you always want to check
here to make sure you have that perfect line I can cut this to length and then I
can form the Tenon’s I can form the mortises let me cut this to length get
this out of the way you saw me cut the line all the way around it’s always good
to do that no matter push pull stroke whatever you don’t get any breaker on
the outside edge at least you minimize it see they’re
crisp clean line a little bit h anging on there so that’s my overall length I can
put my shoulders all the way through remember we’ve got a face edge on here
this is my face and I’m going to run the grooves in here now and the setting for
the plow plane will be exactly the same as we had before so I’m going to run
this along this edge am i with the grain are against the grain looks good it’s just to get me ready for doing my
tenons upper body workout straightens your back your stomach muscles your arm
muscles get your breathing going all good stuff make sure this depth stop
doesn’t move on you make sure your fence isn’t moving these things do happen that’s one side flip over end for end and be careful when you clamp here because
you got those weaker walls now that’s that so got my shoulder lines
here I could go ahead and cut these because I’m very much governed by this
which gives me the exact position just as we did before on the Tenon’s we use
this across the end here that guarantees that first line but I also had
this gauge set with a quarter inch chisel the one I use to cut the mortise
so I can use this here and here and use the walls of the groove to give me the
depth so I can cut these completely and then I can work I actually won’t fit
them but I can cut them cut my shoulder lines square all the way around don’t
you love that click sound when it goes in this is I love this sound listen perfect same on this one click in I should go
from the other face I should go from that face but I’ve already used the
gauge line I got this exactly parallel so I’m not worried that these shoulder
lines are not going to line up but this is just discipline work really making
sure that you work accurately so that this corner line comes out right on that
corner cut your shoulders first if you do miss cut and you end up on the
wrong side of the line you have to trim off the shoulder all the way line get it
perfectly aligned again and then you may have to move your top rail if you have
done that slightly but because we did cut oversize a little bit on the height
we have enough margin for that don’t cut into the face of the tenon in the inside
corner stay away from the corners it’s very important not to undersize your
piece of wood so this is my outside face so I’m going to cut on the waste out of
the line I’m going to leave a little bit of wood on and then go down with my
router listen you want to not cut into the down
into the shoulder line if you can avoid it same on this one cut it fat because
you can always trim off very easily with the router or a chisel my fingers are on
here they’re pushing this into the face of the plate now just to add a little
bit of friction accuracy really matters this sharpness this technique all of
these things they all matter is how you work oops stay in now this is where you have to be
careful let me show you right in here if I push through here I’ll break this
inner edge so you can go in here and take a small not big one just a small
mitre on the inside corners here just to prevent those fibres from breaking when
you push the full width of your chisel from your knife wall just to pare down
the fuzz from those shoulders I think the fuzz means police does it
still mean that we’re cutting down on the fuzzy now you know I’m going to do
you’re going to whiz through this watch this that chisel is just riding what
happens with the chisel when you sharpen after you’ve sharpened and it’s been
used for a while the flat face gets broken edges on this face and it doesn’t
quite get to the surface and you end up having to lift up a little bit so you
want to make sure you stay on top of this especially when you’re working on
this pristine work this is not like notching a gate all on my view that’s
still important so make sure you stay on top of
sharpening this is so important see it just takes two seconds really what is it
a minute to sharp the chisel like this I wonder how many of you were counting
then this ritualistic thing every time so that’s ready again now done that one just take these down here not what you
really – that chisel the inside corners that’s so nice now just transform my
chisel and no machines no tomat grinders just get on with the job fast effective
and beautiful oh yeah yeah yeah you feel so good when you put things in order
don’t you as good as it gets so here I don’t have a hole to fit it – yeah I can do
this one face with the router to get this initialized face down and now down
to the gauge line so I can do that but beyond that I’m not going to do the back
one until I’ve got a hole to fit it – can’t fit the hole to the to the tenon
so you have to do it the other way so there’s my face where is it
there’s my face mark down there so that’s the first one done so I’m dead on
that line they’re dead parallel to this outside face when this fits there it’s
going to be perfectly fitted to the surface I believe same on that one those
are done set this aside not too far away because we use that to put this together
do you have everything marked on this is my outside face my front face knock this
apart come out I’ve got my face mark here my
face mark here so these go together face to face like this put this in the vise
like this get everything lined up I’m working on my shoulder lines here there now I’ve got to deduct so this is my top
rail and this is my top mortise so this one is going to go in this way so I’m
going to use this now to gauge equi distance that this in the middle of the
rail now I’m not going to give you measurements here because yours may well
be different because you use different size wood or some variants came into
place while you were doing this so so I’m dead center there I’m going to use a
knife but you can use a pencil if you prefer just using a knife on either side
then I’m going to bring this and I’m going to line this inside face up with
that knife line and that’s going to give me the position of my mortise hole here
and here which is quarter of an inch in from that line anyway now these two can
go across together so that gives me the position of my mortise holes that
should put me exactly centered I’m going to go here on these two extremes that’s
the width of my perpendicular I’m going to put in a thin knife wall not a knife
wall really just a knife mark in this case and that’s the difference between a
knife mark and a knife wall is two different things used for different
purposes but they often come together to give a delineation a certain marking
point so that’s where I draw the line now I’m going to do I’m going to check
here again on this outside face I’m going to check here I’m going to check
here before I do any cutting because I do want this to be dead center I don’t
want any mistakes outside face the face of this goes against the outside face
because I’m going to now shop down there with my quarter inch chisel to create
the mortise hole and I’m only going to go 3/8 deeper than the bottom of my
groove so this is a very fast process there’s my first cut second and I just
move away in increments of maybe an eighth of an inch keep my chisel aligned
with the guide now I don’t want to go too deep it doesn’t really matter if I
do it’s not gonna really weaken anything but check my alignment with this mark that
knife wall turn my chisel around come back along and just break out those
glass fibers this is going so quickly and so easily that’s it really take this
out and we’ll clean up the waste wood with a smaller chisel you’ve heard all
this before I know but I have to keep saying it just to make sure I know I
have enough depth I’m sure I do I do I have a sixteenth of an inch spare back
in the vise just to clean up that edge that mortise hole is really ready now is
nothing else I’m not going to take anything off the mortise hole now
generally I wouldn’t maybe just a slight trace sometimes if it’s to fit the tenon so that’s that one I’ll cut the other
one when you are not here because now I’m going to fit the tenon into this one
this is my top rail this is my front face front face and I have left this
well fat but if I turn it around you’ll see that this is aligning pretty much
with that front face you don’t think you can probably see as clearly as I can
this little piece of wood holding me off so now I just fit this tenon into here
so I’m looking for close how close I am pretty close can I just use the same
setting on the router I don’t know I’m just going to try it and see so I’m
taking off just the outer 1/8 can you see right there took that out of face of
that 1/8 and I’m going to try this now just to see how close it is it looks
like it’s spot on so I’m going to go with confidence there if it was loose
would it matter I think it does matter I’m not going to pretend it doesn’t
you’d be disappointed if it didn’t fit but in terms of its structural value it
would probably be just fine because the mainframe is so strong the hole of this
frame is so strong very nice okay so this goes
here this is going to go this way right in between it’s just I think it’s just a
bit too tight I’m going to give it a little tap I think that’s too tight so
I’m going to take a little bit more off the back edge now I could I could take
it out of the mortise but it’s not a good practice generally I’m going
to take this down one thing I didn’t do it’s probably easier with a chisel is
just to take off the corner here give it a bit of a leading edge in and off the
corner this just eases this into the mortise hole usually I want this tight
if I can get it tight still too tight couple of fibers on this outside edge
here as well that’s good so each one of these is just a little bit more fitting
every time and there there you have it a little bit off square there there we go
so I’ve got good clean tight shoulders and flush on the front flush on the back
I don’t need to plain that at all it fits perfectly and now I’m going to do
the same to this inside of this one and then we’ll get back together and
assemble this